Chasing Ferns & Fog in the Redwoods
Place: Redwood National and State Parks
State: California
Closest Cities: Portland,OR & San Francisco, CA
Time of Year: May 2026
How we got there: Plane/Road Trip
For the last few years, we have been checking off national parks from our list, usually in sets of 2 or 3. You would think that with California having 9 national parks that we could easily visit 2 or more in one visit! Not the case with the parks located in the Northern part of Cali! Not only is there no major airport within 2 hours, there are a significant number of driving hours between them. With only 2 California parks remaining, we opted to chase the ferns and fog in The Redwood National & State Parks on their own.
Day 1
Portland International Airport was where we started due to the fact that there was a small part of the Southern Oregon coastline that we had yet to visit and driving down from Portland would give us that opportunity. Whether we drove from San Francisco or Portland, it would be about equal distance (about 5.5 hours).
After collecting our rental car or should I say Big Ass Truck (Cesar insisted on choosing the GMC Sierra Truck from the Emerald Aisle at National Car Rental) we were on the road to Brookings, OR. Along the way we stopped at a few sights between Coos Bay and Brookings.
The destination for this evening was Samuel H Boardman Scenic Corridor. It felt so good to walk along the coastal cliffs after the long drive. We took a peek at Arch Rock which can be viewed after a very short hike. There’s nothing like the rugged coastal cliffs and jagged rock formations along Oregon’s coast.
And right before sunset we saw the Natural Bridges which was the main view I was after! It has been on my list for quite a while!
I really wanted to walk over the natural bridge like the guy in this video, however we do value our lives so opted to view from a distance instead! This is not a good sunset spot though so we continued on down the scenic corridor.
We arrived at Cape Ferrelo just in time for a twilight picnic in anticipation for the sunset! And what a beautiful sunset it was!! It was a quiet spot with a few hiking trails into the forest that we did not try due to the late hour (sunset was at 8:30pm). I would have liked to spend more time along Samuel H Boardman Scenic Corridor but was content with the overlook views and sunset!
Day 2
After an overnight stay at a cute little motel (AmeriCoast Inn) in Brookings, OR, found on Expedia.com for under $100, we made our way over the border into California!
We were heading 40 minutes south toward a Starbucks in Crescent City, CA for some precious WiFi! Just a heads up, WiFi is pretty scarce in this area! Why do we need WiFi in the middle of this gorgeous natural wonder you ask? Permits of course! We needed permits for two of our big adventures and when the clock strikes 8am or 9am (depending on permit) you must be one of the first because they are literally gone within 1 minute! If you plan ahead, you can get advanced permits, otherwise you can try your luck 24 hours in advance! Here is the site you need: https://redwoodparksconservancy.org/. We were lucky enough to score both the Fern Canyon permit and the Tall Trees permit!
Redwood National Park is comprised of Redwood National Park plus 3 state parks; Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park, Del Norte Coast Redwoods State Park, and Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park. These parks were all created to protect the giant redwoods that cover over 40 miles of the northern coast of California near the Oregon border. They are home to the tallest and biggest trees on the planet. Only about 5% of the ancient Redwoods still exist today so we are pretty grateful for the national and state parks that now protect them.
After a quick stop at Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park Visitor’s Center in Crescent City, CA to get our bearings, we made our way to the start of Howland Hill Road. This is a narrow dirt road leading to all the great trailheads in Jedediah Smith State Park. This was definitely a time we were second guessing the Big Ass Truck choice! We barely squeezed through the twists and turns on this road!
You may think once or twice that you have made a wrong turn but you are so overwhelmed by the beauty that you don’t really care! We didn’t in fact make a wrong turn (there’s nowhere to turn!) and eventually made it to the trailhead of The Grove of The Titans.
This is a popular “not to miss” trail which is about 2 miles round trip. There are some really cool elements on the way.
About 3/4 of a mile in, you reach an elevated metal boardwalk and this is where you see the Titans!
It is hard to describe how big these trees really are. You have to see them for yourself! The new metal walkway helps protect the new growth surrounding the redwoods that had been trampled upon in the past.
Our next stop along Howland Hill Rd was Stout Memorial Grove. It is a 1/2 mile loop with unique features such as fallen redwoods and access to the Smith River. During the summer a temporary bridge is install to cross the river, however it was not yet placed during our visit.
The fallen trees really give you a sense of how large the trees are and makes you wonder what a big event it must be when one falls to the ground! I love how even the fallen trees are still alive with ferns and Redwood Sorrel.
We spotted our first glimpse of a banana slug tucked away in the trunk of a fallen tree!
If I haven’t mentioned before, everytime we visit a National Park we listen to a fantastic audio guide from https://guidealong.com/. We just love the voice of Dave Pettitt, who we call Gypsy Jim (his original audio tours were call Gypsy Guide hence our nickname!). This guide is location based so he will start the audio narration as you approach sites. He was so helpful when we didnt have WiFi and lost directions! As long as you download his tour in advance you are good to go anywhere!
“Gypsy Jim” was the one who told us about this cool covered bridge on the route to see Simpson Reed Grove. He told us it is known as the Kissing Bridge!
Circling back on Route 199 The Redwood Highway, we found Simpson Reed Grove which is another 1 mile round trip “must see” grove. On the way we passed the national park sign!
I have to say that all the groves are unique in their own way and you cannot say “if you have seen one, you’ve seen them all”.
With all the groves in Jedediah Smith State Park checked off our list, we headed back into Crescent City in search of the Battery Point Lighthouse. From afar this lighthouse it just gorgous sitting alone out on a rocky island, tucked under a shade tree.
You can actually visit the lighthouse by parking your car in the lot and walking across the land bridge that appears only during low tide! Once across, we climbed the hill and found the cute little active lighthouse nestled among the vibrant pink ice plants that had blanketed the cliffside.
This is actually someone’s home so we had to be very respectful while exploring the quirky grounds.
We had one last stop before getting dinner and checking in to our cabin in Klamath. Just about 5 minutes south of Crescent City on the way to Kalamath is a little stop with a 1.5 mile round trip trail down to Enderts Beach when you can find tidepools and rugged cliffs. There is also an overlook if you do not want to hike.
This coastal cliffs trail has a lot to offer if you are looking for short and sweet! Just be sure to check the tide schedule if you want to tidepool! The tide was coming in just when we got down to the beach so we stayed up on the cliffs to enjoy the waves crashing and below.
We noticed an arch just under our feet and climbed down to have a closer look! We love watching the waters rise and recede through the arch.
It’s best to grab a bite to eat in Crescent City because there isn’t much to choose from in Klamath. We rented this cute little cabin right off Highway 101 (aka Redwood Highway) called Woodland Villas. They do have a little store and cafe however we were never there during business hours.
Day 3
Day 3 was the big day that we got to use our 2 precious permits! We wanted to be at Tall Trees Trailhead early to avoid crowds. The permit is designed to limit the number of people on the trail and that it did! Driving south on The Redwood Highway, we turned left on Bald Hill Road, passing Lady Bird Johnson Grove (which we would visit after), and taking us through the fog and trees to see the early light of the day shining through. It was a little eerie and oh so beautiful!
We made it to the dirt road with access gate where we would use our code (emailed to us after obtaining the permit) to unlock our adventure! We had the morning time slot. There is also an afternoon time slot.
Times like this, we were happy to have The Big Ass Truck! The 6 miles of the dirt access road after the gate were bumpy and dusty! There were only a few other cars at the trailhead when we arrived. No people in sight! A quick potty break and we were on our way to see the tallest trees on the plant! Literally, this grove has THE tallest tree although not marked for protection! Its a secret, but I bet you can spot it for yourself if you look hard enough!
Tall Trees is a 4 mile round trip lollipop trail that drops 800 feet down right away. The grove is located at the bottom near the creek and there are some fun obstacles along the way.
Being the only ones there, we enjoyed the birds chirping and stopped to admire the wildflowers.
Cesar rescued a banana slug who was in danger as he lay in the middle of the trail!
At the bottom of the trail we entered the “lollipop” section which was home to the Tall Trees Grove.
The path narrowed with a new overgrowth of ferns and the trees were taller than ever before.
The Redwood Creek was a good place to stop for a snack before climbing 800 feet out and back to the car.
6 miles back up the dirt road to the gate and then back onto Bald Hill Rd we made another attempt to see the view from Redwood Creek Overlook but were unsuccessful. The fog still had not lifted and I’m sure that later in the day it would have been an incredible vista but we had to keep moving because there was still so much to see in this area of Del Norte Redwoods State Park.
Coming upon Lady Bird Johnson Grove again, we found that it was swarming with vehicles. This is a popular spot and I didnt want to miss it. We were lucky enough to squeeze The Big Ass Truck into a parking spot someone had just vacated close to Lady Bird Johnson Grove Bridge.
The fog was still hanging low and a light drizzle had started as we crossed this wooden bridge leading into the 1.5 mile grove trail. I have to say that of all the groves we visited on this trip, Lady Bird Johnson was my favorite! We were in a true rainforest dripping wet with moisture giving it that mystical feel. It was truly something special!
Definitely a must see!
Once back on Bald Hill Road, we turned left onto Highway 101 just to make a quick stop at Thomas H. Kuchel Visitor Center. This is a cool stop because the back doors of the visitor’s center open to a path to the ocean with driftwood and distant sea stacks. I particularly loved the native legend posted along the path!
Going north this time on Highway 101 we found the turn off for the road to Fern Canyon which was the next coveted permit spot! Fern Canyon is located within Prairie Creek State Park. Driving several miles on yet another bumpy dirt road, we reached the permit check for Fern Canyon. You either need a day use permit or a reserved camping spot to enter. They are strict because we witnessed several cars who were told to turn around. Be prepared because it is a long way out!
Your Fern Canyon permit also gets you access to Gold’s Bluff Beach. We had another 2 miles of dirt road to the trailhead. The parking here fills up and sometimes people have to parks 1 to 2 miles away (in the beach access spots) and walk to the trailhead. Luckily we did not have to do that!
Fern Canyon has to be the most incredible 1 mile hike we have ever done! From the parking lot you are just feet from the canyon entrance, but once you enter, it is so magical that you don’t want to leave!
The canyon walls are steep on either side and there are 8 different types of ferns covering the rock. Tiny waterfalls cascade down and run into the creek at our feet which we had to cross on little footbridges crisscrossing back and forth over the water.
I really wish the pictures and videos could portray how magnificent it really is!
Even though it is only a mile, it takes much longer than you think because you have to stop and look at every detail! Unbelievable!
When you have made it through the canyon you can choose to turn around and back track or you can take the trail up on top of the canyon walls for a different view. This is what we decided to do just so we didn’t miss anything!
I just don’t know how we could top that tiny hike! So much beauty packed into a remote canyon! We took a peak at Gold’s Bluff Beach before heading out.
We had enjoyed a lot of hiking this day but still wanted to stop at a couple more spots. Turning off Highway 101 we took the scenic Newton B. Drury Parkway to Prairie Creek Visitor Center. Here there are several hiking trails leading to more big trees!!
The Karl Knapp Trail looked interesting so we walked over the boardwalk a short distance just to take a look. We didn’t have the energy for any more hiking even if it was only 2.5 miles!
You can hike to the Big Tree Wayside, however you can also drive the short distance so that it what we did!!
We really were done for the day when we passed the turn off for Klamath River Overlook. This was on my list and it was hard to pass up. I’m glad we turned because the view was quite unique! This is where the Klamath River feeds into the ocean and the view was unlike any convergence I’d seen in the past.
Day 4
For our last day in the Redwoods, we debated on whether to take it easy and enjoy a relaxing day on my 53rd birthday, or drive 2 hours to The Avenue of the Giants further south. It’s not really like us to take it easy! The Redwoods are remote, would we ever find another chance to come back? Maybe, but why not see it all while we are here!
So, early in the morning we started on our way to Humboldt State Park & The Avenue of the Giants via Highway 101. It wasn’t long when we spotted a sign advertising the “storybook” dairy town. of Ferndale. What’s an extra 20 minutes to drive through and see? What a cute little town with Victorian style homes and the coolest cemetery!
We then happened upon a sign pointing to Capetown & Petrolia and after a quick google search found that it was the Lost Coast Scenic Drive and that it would lead us right into Humboldt State Park!
45 miles and 2 hours later we had driven over hills on narrow, curvy roads, past remote farms, ocean views and wildflower filled meadows!
No gas, no toilets and no pull outs. Nowhere to stop but right in the middle of the road. There was not anther car or human pretty much the whole way! Even though it was way out of our way and took longer than anticipated, I wouldn’t change anything! Adventure is the spice of life and if we didnt take chances, we would miss so much!
True to its word, the Lost Coast Scenic Drive lead us right into Humboldt State Park and in a blink of an eye we were back amongst the giants!
We entered Bull Creek Flats Road where we walked the Rockefeller Loop and visited the Giant Tree, The Flat Iron Tree and The Tall Tree (aka Rockefeller Tree).
It was time to drive a portion of the Avenue of the Giants. This is a 32 mile road between Phillipsville and Pepperwood however since we had already done a ton of driving, we decided to start at the Humboldt State Park Visitor’s Center and back track north.
The visitor’s center is home to Charles Kellogg’s Travel Log, aka world’s first RV, built in 1914! Can you imagine camping in that? It looked pretty luxurious considering it was a log!!
Directly across the street from the visitor’s center is the Gould Grove Nature Trail. Just about 1/2 mile in length, it is a nice way to stretch your legs.
There are also picnic tables near the visitor’s center which is a nice spot for lunch!
There are also a couple of campgrounds in this area. Our last stop along The Avenue of Giants was the Founders Grove.
Although the nature walks are nice, the best part of the Avenue of Giants was just driving along the narrow redwood lined road and absorbing all the beauty of these impressive trees!
Our time in Humboldt State Park was coming to an end. This time we traveled back to Klamath on Highway 101 which was must quicker but not as pretty as the Lost Coast Scenic Drive!
After this long day of driving, we were getting hungry and remembered a food truck called Mojo Pizza in the tiny town of Orick. We were treated to a surprisingly great pizza and good company! If you ever find yourself in Orick, give it a try!
Day 5
Our last day would be spent driving back to Portland, OR to catch our plane back home. We took a different route back up through Grants Pass instead of the coast. We said goodbye to Northern California…
And Hello again to Oregon…
Just past Grants Pass in a place called Wolf Creek were we spotted a small sign pointing to a covered bridge. It is hard to pass up a covered bridge so we turned off and within 2 minutes were driving through Grave Creek Covered Bridge.
There is something special about a covered bridge!!
After 4 days of chasing ferns and fog in the Redwoods, we were on our way home with thoughts of these impressive trees running through our minds! What a wonderful place to spend a few days away from the fast paced world relaxing among the tallests trees on the planet. I hope you too get a chance to wander among the giants! Please remember to hike responsibly and leave no trace!
If you are interested in other California National Parks, check out our visit to Pinnacles: https://dawntillduskaz.com/passionate-for-pinnacles/
